Unfolding a Silk Edition

Before tying a printed scarf, open it out. It is the only moment when you can see the whole image at once. On X.C Studio’s silk editions, architectural fragments spread across the square: pieces of a city that will soon disappear into a fold or reappear beside a knot.

The 90 × 90 cm format gives you room to choose how much of that image stays visible. A narrow fold brings out small sections of the print. A wider one leaves more of the drawing across the chest. Begin with those two options, then adjust the position to the shirt or jacket you are wearing.

Where the drawing begins

X.C Studio was founded by Xuechen Chen in 2020. Chen studied architecture at Pratt Institute and went on to postgraduate architectural design study at the University of Pennsylvania. Her practice extends from buildings into digital art and objects.

The studio’s Urban Unfold project looks at cities through fragments, layered views and the experience of moving through them. That background is useful when looking at the scarves. You do not need to identify every building to follow the image; a repeated line or a change of scale may be the part you notice first.

Unfold New York — Black carries artwork by Xuechen Chen. The New Ground — Terracotta, drawn from Rome, carries artwork by Xuechen Chen and Phuong Mai Do. The scarf designs are by X.C Studio and the editions are published by ARKVEIL.

A narrow fold at the neck

Lay the scarf flat on a clean surface and bring one corner to the opposite corner to make a triangle. Starting at the long folded edge, fold the fabric over in broad, even turns until you have a band. Keep the folds loose enough that you can open them again without tugging.

Place the band around your neck, bring the ends forward and tie them loosely. Leave comfortable room at the neck. Move the knot slightly to one side if you want the ends to sit beside a shirt opening, then ease the fabric above it so it does not bunch.

On Unfold New York — Black, this fold brings the dark ground, fine red lines and lighter fragments into a smaller area. Turn the band before tying it to choose which part faces out. A little more of the red edge can make a noticeable difference against a plain shirt.

Leave more of the square open

For a broader shape, make the same triangle but stop after fewer folds. Drape it around the back of the neck and bring the ends forward. A loose knot to one side lets the fabric spread rather than gathering everything at the center.

This is a useful starting point for The New Ground — Terracotta. Its larger pale and dark areas remain easier to see when the fold is wide. Before tightening the knot, open the front slightly with your fingers and decide which section of the drawing you want to show.

Compare the result with your jacket open and closed. If the scarf fills too much of the neckline, fold it once more. If the image has almost disappeared, loosen the band and allow a wider section to fall forward. There is no need for the two ends to finish at exactly the same height.

After wearing

Undo the knot before putting the scarf away and store it flat or loosely folded. These editions are 100% silk twill; follow the silk care guidance, including professional dry cleaning only. Keep perfume and other sprays away from the fabric.

The next time you wear it, begin with a different corner. The size is the same, but another part of the drawing will arrive at the front.